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MIU MIU SPRING SUMMER 2017

Swim caps on, beach towels at the ready! Miuccia Prada was apparently in a playful summer mood when she put together the Miu Miu collection (though, sadly, her models weren’t smiling about it). At a time when there’s so much trouble and stress in the world, it’s sometimes a treat to take a break from thinking too much. Who, at this juncture, wouldn’t want to buy into the sunny retro-fantasy of Italy at its glamorous postwar peak?
That’s when Prada was a girl, of course. This is a period she knows so well—the optimistic culture of ’60s and early-’70s prints (schematic daisies; abstract art; and hand-smocked baby dresses for little children transformed into cropped blouses). She also grew up with a mother and a grandmother who wore lovely ’40s-print dresses; on the runway were several extremely tempting examples of these, complete with back ties.
All of these looks were accompanied either by beach slides or wedge sandals, which, on close inspection, had shells and starfish embossed into them. Later, they were worn by delightfully sexy ’50s pinup girls in ruched bikinis. All this, of course, would be to overlook the multiple examples of ’60s fit-and-flare coats in this collection. It was a great deal of fun, gratefully received in this time of chaos.

A look from Miu Miu's spring 2017 collection. Photo: Imaxtree

A look from Miu Miu’s spring 2017 collection. 

Miuccia Prada presented her latest collection for Miu Miu in Paris on Wednesday, serving as the very last show on the Paris Fashion Weekcalendar. The label sent its customarily sweet, girlish designs down the runway on a slew of “It” models, including Taylor Hill and Anna Ewers, both of whom starred in Miu Miu’s fall 2016 campaign, as well as Gigi Hadid and this season’s breakout face, Dilia Martins.

From 1950s housewife dresses and pin-up bathing suits to funky 1970s printed suits, Miu Miu’s Spring/Summer 2017 collection ran the gamut of eras and influences. Designer Miuccia Prada is consistent with Miu Miu in that she uses her younger ready-to-wear line to explore polished retro styles for the young and young at heart. Indeed, this season bears the same hallmarks of throwback inspiration mixed with luxurious textiles, delightful prints, and contemporary accessories.

Beachwear was foremost on Prada’s mind this season, and she took multiple opportunities to showcase her version, which included wedges with heels that were sculpted from waves, crabs, and other marine life, floral appliquéd bathing caps, and two-piece swimsuits worn with apron skirts or layered over smooth khaki dresses. A halter neckline was a repeated motif, appearing on multiple forms of bathing suits and cover-ups, occasionally paired with a zany jodhpur/hot-pant hybrid.

Additionally, Miu Miu’s show highlighted twee elements like babydoll dresses with cross-stitch embroidery details juxtaposed against more facetious ideas like smart nautical blazers worn with fuzzy terry-cloth wrap skirts. Retro-print shirtdresses and plush, patterned house coats spoke to 1960s styles, but in Miu Miu’s gorgeous textiles, they offered a more luxurious option than anything you would have found along the Italian Riviera back then.

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Miuccia Prada and MIU MIU officially wrap up the SS17 runway season with the label’s Paris Fashion Week show presented today at Palais d’Iena in Paris. The show space was redesigned to match the collection with a “Synthetic Summer” set masterfully designed by AMO the prolific design office of OMA architecture practice. This time Miu Miu teams up with the famed stylist and LOVE Magazine Editor in Chief Katie Grand while in charge of the makeup on the runway was the famed Pat McGrath.

AMO’s design for the 2017 Spring/Summer Miu Miu show makes use of engineered materials to create an artificial summer landscape in Auguste Perret’s Palais d’Iena. The catwalk is contained inside a plywood box, constructed within the Salle Hypostyle. The audience sits on graduated platforms that emerge from the wooden background, set on either side of the linear runway. An interweaving pattern made of matte and shiny PVC covers the floor and catwalk, in places continuing up the tribunes and walls. A series of graphic illustrations recreates naive and colorful landscapes, reminiscent of summer settings. – said AMO and MIU MIU pr team.

Discover the key looks from the new collection as well as more of the showspace after the jump:
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